Dear readers,
Thanks for tuning in to another edition of Curio, the newsletter for curious minds seeking a small break from the relentless and exhausting news cycle.
Some personal news — it’s with a heavy heart that I’ll be leaving New York at the end of August. This means I’ll have spent exactly three years in this incredible city. I plan on writing more about this at some point, but at the moment I’m still processing it. I’m eventually moving back to Australia for an exciting opportunity starting next year but my immediate plans are less clear. While I’m figuring it out, packing up my life and saying goodbye to friends, I’ll be taking a brief hiatus from writing Curio as I think I’ll have too much on my mind over the next short period to devote proper attention to it. I hope to be back writing it soon.
Frank E Jamieson - Scottish lake landscape in front of mountains
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In the meantime, I hope you stay happy and healthy 🙂
- Oli
I first came across Anthony Bourdain (1956 – 2018) when watching his entertaining Parts Unknown food and travel show. However, it wasn’t until I read his acclaimed memoir, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly (2000), that I really appreciated his gifts. On top of being a famous chef and award-winning television presenter, he’s also a talented writer with a skill for story telling and irony.
The book is very entertaining, detailing “twenty-five years of sex, drugs, bad behavior and haute cuisine.” Many of the stories are outrageous and paint a vivid and hilarious picture of what life was like behind the scenes in New York restaurants in the 1980s and 1990s.
“For me, the cooking life has been a long love affair, with moments both sublime and ridiculous”
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Early on in the book, Bourdain famously outlines some of his rules for eating.
“There are some general principles I adhere to, things I’ve seen over the years that remain in my mind and have altered my eating habits. I may be perfectly willing to try the grilled lobster at an open-air barbeque shack in the Caribbean, where the refrigeration is dubious and I can see with my own eyes the flies buzzing around the grill (I mean, how often am I in the Caribbean? I want to make the most of it!), but on home turf, with the daily business of eating in restaurants, there are some definite dos and don’t I’ve chosen to live by.”
“I never order fish on Monday... I know how old most seafood is on Monday — about four to five days old!
You walk into a nice two-star place in Tribeca on a sleepy Monday evening and you see they’re running a delicious-sounding special of Yellowfin Tuna, Braised Fennel, Confit Tomatoes and a Saffron Sauce. Why not go for it? Here are the two words that should leap out at you when you navigate the menu: ‘Monday’ and ‘Special’.
Here’s how it works: The chef of this fine restaurant orders his fish on Thursday for delivery Friday morning. He’s ordering a pretty good amount of it, too, as he’s not getting another delivery until Monday morning… The chef is hoping to sell the bulk of that fish — your tuna — on Friday and Saturday nights, when he assumes it will be busy. He’s assuming also that if he has a little left on Sunday, he can unload the rest of it then, as a seafood salad for lunch, or as a special.
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This is why you don’t see a lot of codfish or other perishable items as a Sunday or Monday night special — they’re not sturdy enough. The chef knows. He anticipates the likelihood that he might still have some fish lying around on Monday morning — and he’d like to get money for it without poisoning his customers.”
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“I don’t eat mussels in restaurants unless I know the chef personally, or have seen, with my own eyes, how they store and hold their mussels for service. I love mussels. But in my experience, most cooks are less than scrupulous in their handling of them… Some restaurants, I’m sure, have special containers, with convenient slotted bins, which allow the mussels to drain while being held — and maybe, just maybe, the cooks at these places pick carefully through every order, mussel by mussel, making sure that every one is healthy and alive before throwing them into a pot. I haven’t worked in too many places like that.”
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“How about seafood on Sunday? Well…sometimes, but never if it’s an obvious attempt to offload aging stuff, like seafood salad vinaigrette or seafood frittata, on a brunch menu. Brunch menus are an open invitation to the cost-conscious chef, a dumping ground for the odd bits left over from Friday and Saturday nights or for the scraps generated in the normal course of business. You see a fish that would be better served by quick grilling with a slice of lemon, suddenly all dressed up with vinaigrette? For en vinaigrette on the menu, read ‘pre-served’ or ‘disguised’.”
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“While we’re on brunch, how about hollandaise sauce? Not for me. Bacteria love hollandaise. And hollandaise, that delicate emulsion of egg yolks and clarified butter, must be held at a temperature not too hot nor too cold, lest it break when spooned over your poached eggs. Unfortunately, this lukewarm holding temperature is also the favorite environment for bacteria to copulate and reproduce in. Nobody I know has ever made hollandaise to order. Most likely, the stuff on your eggs was made hours ago and held on station…”
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Cooks hate brunch. A wise chef will deploy his best line cooks on Friday and Saturday nights; he’ll be reluctant to schedule those same cooks early Sunday morning, especially since they probably went out after work Saturday and got hammered until the wee hours. Worse, brunch is demoralizing to the serious line cook. Nothing makes an aspiring Escoffier feel more like an army commissary cook, or Mel from Mel’s Diner, than having to slop out eggs over easy with bacon and eggs Benedict for the Sunday brunch crowd. Brunch is punishment block for the ‘B’ team cooks, or where the farm team of recent dishwashers learn their chops. Most chefs are off on Sundays, too, so supervision is at a minimum. Consider that before ordering the seafood frittata.”
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“I wont’t eat in a restaurant with filthy bathrooms. This isn’t a hard call. They let you see the bathrooms. If the restaurant can’t be bothered to replace the puck in the urinal or keep the toilets and floors clean, then just imagine what their refrigeration and work spaces look like. Bathrooms are relatively easy to clean. Kitchens are not.”
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“‘Saving for well-done’ is a time-honored tradition dating back to cuisines earliest days: meat and fish cost money. Every piece of cut, fabricated food must, ideally, be sold for three or even four times its cost in order for the chef to make his ‘food cost percent’. So what happens when the chef finds a tough, slightly skanky end-cut of sirloin that’s been pushed repeatedly to the back of the pile? He can throw it out, but that’s a total loss, representing a three-fold loss of what it cost him per pound. He can feed it to the family, which is the same as throwing it out. Or he can ‘save for well-done’ — serve it to some rube who prefers to eat his meat or fish incinerated into a flavorless, leathery hunk or carbon, who won’t be able to tell if what he’s eating is food or flotsam.”
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“Shrimp? All right, if it looks fresh, smells fresh and the restaurant is busy, guaranteeing turnover of product on a regular basis. But shrimp toast? I’ll pass. I’ll walk into a restaurant with a mostly empty dining room, and an unhappy-looking owner staring out the window? I’m not ordering shrimp.”
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“Watchwords for fine dining? Tuesday through Saturday. Busy. Turnover. Rotation. Tuesdays and Thursdays are the best nights to order fish in New York. The food that comes in Tuesday is fresh, the station prep is new, and the chef is well rested after a Sunday or Monday off. It’s the real start of the new week, when you’ve got the goodwill of the kitchen on your side. Friday and Saturdays, the food is fresh, but it’s busy, so the chef and cooks can’t pay as much attention to your food as they — and you — might like. And weekend diners are universally viewed with suspicion, even contempt, by both cooks and waiters alike; they’re the slackjaws, the rubes, the out-of-towners, the well-done-eating, undertipping, bridge-and-tunnel pretheatre hordes, in to see Cats or Les Miz and never to return. Weekday diners, on the other hand, are the home team — potential regulars, whom all concerned want to make happy. Rested and ready after a day off, the chef is going to put his best food forward on Tuesday; he’s got his best quality product coming in and he’s had a day or two to think of creative things to do with it. He wants you to be happy on Tuesday night. On Saturday, he’s thinking more about turning over tables and getting through the rush.”
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“Do all these horrifying assertions frighten you? Should you stop eating out? Wipe yourself down with antiseptic towelettes every time you pass a restaurant? No way. Like I said before, your body is not a temple, it’s an amusement park. Enjoy the ride.”
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This 1911 video of New York City was taken by the Swedish company Svenska Biografteatern on a trip to America. With the footage slowed down and sound and color added, it’s an extraordinary virtual time machine to an era when William Howard Taft was President, the Titantic was still being built and all men wore hats. Highlights include footage of the early elevated subways, the grand Brooklyn Bridge, and the gorgeous Flatiron building.
However, the reason I wanted to share the video was so you could see the family in the car at four minutes in.
Jarrett Ross is a professional genealogist who runs a YouTube channel called The GeneaVlogger. Through brilliant investigative work trawling through various historical records and archival material, Ross was able to identify the family in the car. If you’re curious to see how he managed to do this, I’d recommend watching the fascinating below video (start from 1:39).
Ross discovered that the family in the car were called the Lochowitz’s and they lived in 548 Eighth St, just near Prospect Park in South Brooklyn. The man in the front seat, Florian Lochowitz, was the patriarch of the family and was married to Antoinette who sits in the back with the large hat. The couple had three children, all of whom are in the video. Florian was born in Poland in 1871 and emigrated to the US in 1890 as a nineteen year old. He worked as a barber and rose up to become a successful businessman, opening up a number of well regarded barber shops throughout the city (a regular patron was JP Morgan), including one in the prestigious Woolworth Building. Florian was forty when the video was taken and he would die seven years later in 1918. By the time he passed away, he was a prominent member in his local community and a dozen papers ran his obituary.
When watching videos set in the distant past it’s easy to forget they contain real people, leading real lives. Ross’s amazing investigative effort helps add such rich context to this old footage.
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Gregorio Allegri (1582 – 1652) was a Roman Catholic priest and Italian composer who in the 1630s wrote Miserere mei, Deus, an exquisite piece of music sung in the below video by The Choir of King's College, Cambridge. It was composed for the exclusive use of the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel in the lead up to Easter and was considered so special that the Pope forbade anyone from transcribing it.
In 1770, almost one hundred and fifty years after it was composed, Leopold Mozart traveled through Europe showcasing his fourteen-year-old prodigy of a son, Wolfgang Amadeus. When the Mozart’s were in Rome, they attended a service at the Vatican at which the Miserere mei, Deus was performed. The young genius heard the piece and later that evening transcribed the entire thing from memory. Further on in their European tour, they ran into a British music historian Charles Burney. The young Mozart passed on the manuscript to Burney, who took it to London and had it published there in 1771. The Vatican’s secret was out: Miserere mei, Deus was now available to anyone.
“The more I read, the more I acquire, the more certain I am that I know nothing.”
- Voltaire
Curio is a newsletter for curious minds seeking an escape from the noise of the news cycle. It is put together by Oli Duchesne